🔗 Share this article

Whenever curating a ranking of London’s finest eateries, one might foresee renowned Michelin-starred establishments. But, situated high among these gastronomic heavyweights is a modest salonu located in a outlying corner of north London.

A Unexpected Honour

This little Turkish spot, focusing in the culinary delights of Mersin, a port city on Turkey’s Mediterranean coast, has been declared the fourth best restaurant in the capital by a respected gastronomic guide. The recognition has left the family completely surprised.

“I’m totally surprised,” remarks a family member, alluding to his family’s relentless work that led to their small place securing such a prominent ranking on a notable 99-strong list.

The Charm of Modesty

This small shop, which used to be a basic cafe before its transformation into a popular destination, has retained much of its original charm. It fits just over 20 people and, aside from the impressive live cooking performance, the layout remains largely unchanged. “It is a small and stocky place,” comments the owner.

The Signature Dish: Tantuni

Ultimately, it’s all down to the cuisine, and this establishment definitely succeeds. The restaurant’s signature dish, tantuni, is a straightforward pleasure. Choice of meat—whether lamb or chicken—is cooked with steam to preserve a succulent quality.

It is then thrown into a large pan with flavours and oil, which are mixed in slowly. As the savoury mixture heats through, freshly made lavaş—a pliable bread—is slapped on top to absorb all the juices. Finely sliced onions and a sprinkling of parsley go inside before the flavourful meat is wrapped securely inside.

The wrap is often eaten with a drop of lemon or some pickles. The final product is a strong burst of taste, with soft hints of sumac, sharp onions and spicy, paprika-laced oil tying it all together.

Beyond the Classic Tantuni

There is also yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is chopped and finished with yogurt, tomato sauce and cooked, nutty browned butter. The leading food critic called this dish “among London’s few ideal, faultless dishes”.

When it comes to dessert, the restaurant’s künefe is a delight. It is doused in less syrup than is typical, imparting it a more intense, more aromatic and less sickly profile.

Surpassing the Stars

Notably, this unassuming spot has ranked above several illustrious three-Michelin-starred venues. It finds itself close to the summit of the list, trailing other esteemed dining destinations.

Whereas two people could easily leave this place full for below £25, comparable experiences at high-end establishments can run into many times that price.

The Creed of Heart

The restaurant is also among several Turkish restaurants included and is found well outside the city’s most expensive zones. “It’s not concerning luxury. London is an expensive city. It is assumption that in an expensive place you’re going to have the best service and best food but I don’t subscribe to that,” states the owner.

“I believe what is crucial is friendliness, a welcoming atmosphere and a place you can be yourself and be calm.”

The view is supported by the list’s editor, who remarked that if he were in a role of power, he would “require to make every chef in London come to this restaurant as a final lesson, to teach them the dangers of excess, and to show what is attainable if you do just one – or three – things to their very best”.

The Journey of Hard Work

Unlike most chefs managing kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the head chef behind the food did not work at Michelin-starred establishments. “I am very happy of our restaurant and our mum,” concludes her son.

A lot of restaurants need years to establish themselves, but this eatery first launched seven years ago. Its acclaim is due to long, grinding, seven-day weeks of dedication.

“My mum used to be really tired. She would buy ingredients in the morning and make the food in the afternoon. All of it is made by hand; she would manage all of this. She is a solo parent and she balanced a social life but her friends would support her to support her. She was raising children and a house to look after as well. All of these duties made her into what she is now: a remarkable person,” he reflects.

A Recognition for the Culture

The restaurant’s recognition is bound to have meaning outside its own doors. “In my opinion a lot of people would be proud, as I am, because the Turkish community is a significant part of London,” concludes the owner, pointing out the wider meaning of this culinary triumph.